Shipping Information

IMPORTANT FIREARM SHIPPING INFORMATION - PLEASE READ!!

Sending me a firearm or stock?  Please let me know it is coming!

****A Scan of my FFL is available upon request for you to print out for use when you ship me a firearm.****

You can ship your project to me using any of the three major carriers, i.e. USPS, FedEx Ground or UPS.  Insurance is optional, but highly recommended.  If the package is not insured for an amount requiring a signature (which varies by carrier, so ask them!), it can just be left on my front porch if I am not home when it is delivered.  There is no guarantee that it will still be there when I return.  Insuring for at least enough to require a signature is a much safer bet, and I imagine that your project is worth enough to you not to warrant trying to save a few bucks on insurance.

Dealing with a few legalities when shipping a firearm:

When shipping any serial numbered firearm, with or without a stock, there is some highly relevant information that has recently been made available to those of us who routinely send and receive firearms as part of our businesses that you should know about. This info is the result of a damage claim filed with UPS by an unknowledgeable shipper that was denied, and a lot of us could have the same problem if we’re not careful. 

What it boils down to is if you don't dot all the “i's” and cross all the “t's” the way the shippers want you to, and if there is any damage, in all likelihood the claim will be categorically denied. To sum this up briefly, you can ship me your project containing a long arm action to work on for you through either USPS, UPS or FedEx, using ground or air service. In the case of using FedEx or UPS, you must bring the package to a company-owned facility for shipment, or you can ship it from your work if your company has a UPS or FedEx account and regular pickups, i.e. you can't ship through a franchisee (e.g. The UPS Store, or non-FedEx owned facilities, etc. ). Their rational is that in so doing, you are turning over a firearm to someone not directly under their control and supervision. 

You must declare that the package contains a firearm. The shipper is entitled to ask you to see a copy of my FFL. This copy may be retained by the shipper, it may be enclosed in/on the package, or it may be returned to you. I will be happy to email you a scan of my FFL to print out for this purpose. You may also have to request it be sent with an “Direct or Adult Signature Required” at my end if sending it uninsured (but this may cost about the same as insuring for enough to require a signature). The shipment can come directly to my home. 

You can ship a firearm directly to me yourself, as long as you show the shipper a copy of my FFL.  You may also ship through any business that holds an FFL, if you prefer, e.g. your local gun shop, but they will likely charge you a fee over and above the shipping costs for doing this. I can only ship the firearm directly back to whoever sent it to me, which means it can go to your home or work address, where either you, or an adult member of your immediate family can sign for it (no exceptions!).  If you ship through another FFL, then it will have to go back to them as well (no exceptions!). I prefer to use either the USPS or FedEx Ground, because they have been reliable and are close. To use UPS, I would have to drive a much further, and charge you for that time. 

The USPS, in my opinion, is the most reliable way to ship a firearm.  You can select either Registered Mail, which offers the maximum security, or Priority Mail.  Their overall rates for shipping and insurance may be slightly higher than some of the other services, but IMHO are worth it .

Obviously, you can ship any way you want to, but just be forewarned that if there ever is a damage claim involving a serial numbered firearm, it could be denied if the circumstances don't meet the shipper's strict criteria.

If you are sending me just a stock, with no action of any kind, even with all kinds of other gun parts along in with it, it is business as usual. You can ship that to me any way you want to, no problem. 

Questions about any of this, lemme know!

Clint Meier 

Terms of Business

Terms

1)  Payment: $50.00 minimum deposit or by arrangement (please inquire).  Balance due upon completion or work.  Payment accepted can be Cash, Check, or Money Order.

2)  Labor charges do not include Return Shipping or Insurance.  These costs are additional to all labor charges and/or quotes.

3)  Delivery times are subject to my workload.  Every effort will be made to complete the work by the time suggested, but there is no absolute guarantee.

4)  When shipping, please include a letter/note with your name, address, phone# and email address, along with instructions regarding the work desired.  You may ship using USPS, FedEx Ground or UPS Ground, with insurance recommended.  Also please indicate the amount of insurance desired, if any, for the return shipment.

5)  My LIABILITY is limited to my replacement of any damaged component(s) with like kind.  Like the vast majority of you, I do not carry insurance against the loss of your property due to theft, fire, burglary, acts of God or Mother Nature, or other negligence.  If you want your project insured while it is here with me while I work on it, please get your own insurance policy on it before you ship it to me. 

Additional Information

Stock Refinishing Comments

There are a few things about stock refinishing in general that you should know beforehand, to avoid any unforeseen surprises. The spray-on factory finishes that have been in common use today often have dark stains incorporated into them. They tend to just sit on the surface of the wood and don’t soak into it. The stains used are generally inexpensive, and due to their relatively coarse particle size, are often fairly opaque. This allows for the use of lighter colored wood, which is often less costly wood. These dark finishes also can mask the character of the grain to such an extent that when it is removed and the wood is refinished, the owner is often not sure that they got the correct wood back. Generally, when these finishes are removed, so is the stain, because it was not applied separately to the wood before the finish was applied.

You can check to see if your factory wood is stained, and if so, to what extent. Most factory finished stocks don’t have much, if any, finish applied inside the inletting, under the grip cap, butt plate or recoil pad. Simply remove the metal work, grip cap, butt plate or recoil pad from the stock and have a look at the raw wood and compare it to the color of the finished areas. You can apply a little mineral spirits (paint thinner) with a cloth to the raw wood to "wet" it slightly to see about how it will look with a natural oil finish. If your wood has a dark stain, it will be readily apparent at this time

I don't use stains, either applied before the finish or in my finishes, because when the wood is progressively wet-sanded with finish to fill the pores, sanding through some areas of the stain more than others, results in an uneven blotchy appearance. If you want your wood refinished and want it darker than nature made it, then the most that I can do is to use aniline dyes dissolved in the finish. These dyes are relatively expensive, have microscopic particles and are very transparent. Being transparent, they do not hide the character and contrast of the grain, and can NEVER be as dark as stains. So, no matter what I do to darken your stock, if that is what you really want, it will never be as dark as it was. Also, it is impossible for me to selectively darken only light areas on a stock. It pretty much has to be an all or nothing proposition. This is just a fact of oil wood refinishing. If you have any questions, or concerns, please ask before we start!