1113 SE 2nd Terrace, Lees Summit, MO 64063, US
CGM Gunstock Checkering

Clinton G. (Clint) Meier checkering in his Lee's Summit, MO home workshop.

 Other pics of this Martini Cadet can be seen here 


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Welcome to my new web site!  If you need almost any type of general gunstock work done, you have come to the right place!  In addition to new checkering, I offer a variety of other gunstock  services.  The following pages provide me with the opportunity to show you some examples of my work.  If you enjoy firearms, I am sure you'll enjoy exploring my site.  You may not have any particular project in mind right now, but sooner, or later, you will!   Please keep me in mind.


Feel free to contact me regarding any question that you might have about a project that you have in mind.

Clint Meier

1113 SE 2nd Terrace

Lee’s Summit, Mo 64063-3265 



Scroll down through some examples of the various types of work I do, with links to many, many more additional projects.  Each category of project is it’s own ‘collection’, and each ‘collection’ has many ‘albums’ of individual projects that make it up. The number of hours all projects took to complete are listed near the end of the text for each project. My hourly labor rate is still just $25/hr. (8/2018)






I do quite a bit of new checkering too.  Some customers want a simple, tasteful pattern, leaving it entirely up to me to design something that looks "right".  Others know exactly what they want and supply a detailed drawing, or a photo torn out of a magazine for me to work from.

Reproducing a classic pattern from an old original stock onto a new replacement stock is also a common request.  I tend to prefer traditional patterns, but I have done a few "Buck Rogers Specials" too.  I no longer offer Fleur-de-lis checkering patterns.

Follow this link to see many more New Checkering projects:  


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Of the various services that I offer, this constitutes the bulk of my work.  Most stocks that get used to any great extent will eventually show some wear and tear, i.e. dings, scuffs and scratches in the finish, checkering with diamonds worn down flat, or missing,  and/or the grooves filled in with dirt and grime.  In most cases, such a stock can be made to look almost better than when it was new!

I start by removing the original finish, steam raising dents and sanding out any shallow imperfections.  I strive to keep all lines straight and corners sharp.  The stock is then saturated inside and out with a solvent modified curing resin that penetrates deeply into the wood completely sealing it against moisture and gun oil.  A quality oil finish is progressively wet-burnished into the wood surface filling the open pores.  My trade-mark final finish can is generally what I call a ‘soft luster’, but something with a bit more gloss to it can also be accomplished with additional effort.

I rechecker the original pattern, deepening the lines until all diamonds come to sharp points.  A light coat or two of my own Tung oil formula of finish brushed into the checkering completes the project.

Most basic factory stocks can be refinished and recheckered logging from 16 to 20 hours of bench time, on average.  Refinishing and recheckering are also offered as separate services, see the MISC. & RECHECKERING ONLY projects.

Please see the STOCK REFINISHING COMMENTS in the ADDITIONAL INFORMATION section near the bottom of this page!

Follow this link to see many more STOCK REFINISHING & RECHECKERING projects:


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Projects under this heading can require anywhere from minor to extensive rebuilding before refinishing and recheckering can be completed.   Extra work can include treating the wood for excessive oil-soak, raising dents, patching bad gouges, restoring stripped-out screw holes, repairing and reinforcing cracks and replacing missing pieces of wood.

Because of these variables, providing accurate estimates can be difficult.  Generally, I will only undertake such work at my normal hourly shop rate.  I will not use shortcuts, but will do the job right, thereby doing all I can to insure that you receive a sound and dependably repaired stock.

Follow this link to see many more STOCK REPAIRS & CONSERVATION/PRESERVATION projects:


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Although I no longer offer this service, I am leaving the info available for your reference. Semi-custom stocks are those that I made working from semi-inletted blanks.  I referred to them as semi-custom because I had to work within the machined pattern’s design constraints that I was provided with.  Still, quite a number of features could generally be incorporated to make your stock a one-of-a-kind. 

Prices could vary a lot depending on what features and fittings were requested.

Follow this link to see many more SEMI-CUSTOM STOCK projects:


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Although I no longer offer this service, I am leaving the info available for your reference. There are some things that you just couldn't buy a semi-inletted stock blank for.  Stocking some of these weapons became a serious project.  Custom stocks were just that.  Every aspect of the stock could be built to your exact specifications.  It was very hard to provide firm prices on this kind of work, but I can present a few illustrated examples.

All Custom work was undertaken at my normal hourly shop rate.  Cutting corners and rushing the job was not how I work.  The cost would vary depending on your specifications and the features you choose to incorporate. 

Follow this link to see more CUSTOM STOCK projects:


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This is a collection of various types of projects that do not fit conveniently into any one of the previously listed categories of work that I do.  Some are larger, some are smaller, but all have proven to be worthwhile to the client.   This was not a feature on my original web site.

Follow this link to many more MISC. & RECHECKERING ONLY projects:


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This collection is meant to provide the viewer with a glimpse of something they might not ordinarily see.  What some unusual guns look like internally, how they were designed and are put together, or maybe how certain features were designed.  It is meant to maybe answer some questions and provide you with some ideas to help you develop or troubleshoot something on your own.  This was not a feature on my original web site.

Follow this link to more JUST OUT OF CURIOSITY projects:


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Many of my client’s have sent me photos of themselves either using a project that I had worked on for them, the result of a hunt using the project or of the project in a studio setting of some kind.  I was always grateful to see these and set up a special gallery so others could see these photos too.  This was not a feature on my original web site.

Follow this link to see the CLIENT”S GALLERY photos: 


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Clicking on the link below will take you to the main page of my FLICKR web site, where you can get a look at all of the various ‘collections’ I have posted and then go into any that are of interest to you:


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Sending me a firearm or stock?  Please let me know it is coming!

****A Scan of my FFL is available upon request for you to print out for use when you ship me a firearm.****

You can ship your project to me using any of the three major carriers, i.e. USPS, FedEx Ground or UPS.  Insurance is optional, but highly recommended.  If the package is not insured for an amount requiring a signature (which varies by carrier, so ask them!), it can just be left on my front porch if I am not home when it is delivered.  There is no guarantee that it will still be there when I return.  Insuring for at least enough to require a signature is a much safer bet, and I imagine that your project is worth enough to you not to warrant trying to save a few bucks on insurance.

Dealing with a few legalities when shipping a firearm:

When shipping any serial numbered firearm, with or without a stock, there is some highly relevant information that has recently been made available to those of us who routinely send and receive firearms as part of our businesses that you should know about. This info is the result of a damage claim filed with UPS by an unknowledgeable shipper that was denied, and a lot of us could have the same problem if we’re not careful. 

What it boils down to is if you don't dot all the “i's” and cross all the “t's” the way the shippers want you to, and if there is any damage, in all likelihood the claim will be categorically denied. To sum this up briefly, you can ship me your project containing a long arm action to work on for you through either USPS, UPS or FedEx, using ground or air service. In the case of using FedEx or UPS, you must bring the package to a company-owned facility for shipment, or you can ship it from your work if your company has a UPS or FedEx account and regular pickups, i.e. you can't ship through a franchisee (e.g. The UPS Store, or non-FedEx owned facilities, etc. ). Their rational is that in so doing, you are turning over a firearm to someone not directly under their control and supervision. 

You must declare that the package contains a firearm. The shipper is entitled to ask you to see a copy of my FFL. This copy may be retained by the shipper, it may be enclosed in/on the package, or it may be returned to you. I will be happy to email you a scan of my FFL to print out for this purpose. You may also have to request it be sent with an “Direct or Adult Signature Required” at my end if sending it uninsured (but this may cost about the same as insuring for enough to require a signature). The shipment can come directly to my home. 

You can ship a firearm directly to me yourself, as long as you show the shipper a copy of my FFL.  You may also ship through any business that holds an FFL, if you prefer, e.g. your local gun shop, but they will likely charge you a fee over and above the shipping costs for doing this. I can only ship the firearm directly back to whoever sent it to me, which means it can go to your home or work address, where either you, or an adult member of your immediate family can sign for it (no exceptions!).  If you ship through another FFL, then it will have to go back to them as well (no exceptions!). I prefer to use either the USPS or FedEx Ground, because they have been reliable and are close. To use UPS, I would have to drive a much further, and charge you for that time. 

The USPS, in my opinion, is the most reliable way to ship a firearm.  You can select either Registered Mail, which offers the maximum security, or Priority Mail.  Their overall rates for shipping and insurance may be slightly higher than some of the other services, but IMHO are worth it .

Obviously, you can ship any way you want to, but just be forewarned that if there ever is a damage claim involving a serial numbered firearm, it could be denied if the circumstances don't meet the shipper's strict criteria.

If you are sending me just a stock, with no action of any kind, even with all kinds of other gun parts along in with it, it is business as usual. You can ship that to me any way you want to, no problem. 

Questions about any of this, lemme know!

Clint Meier 


1)  Payment: $50.00 minimum deposit or by arrangement (please inquire).  Balance due upon completion or work.  Payment accepted can be Cash, Check, or Money Order.

2)  Labor charges do not include Return Shipping or Insurance.  These costs are additional to all labor charges and/or quotes.

3)  Delivery times are subject to my workload.  Every effort will be made to complete the work by the time suggested, but there is no absolute guarantee.

4)  When shipping, please include a letter/note with your name, address, phone# and email address, along with instructions regarding the work desired.  You may ship using USPS, FedEx Ground or UPS Ground, with insurance recommended.  Also please indicate the amount of insurance desired, if any, for the return shipment.

5)  My LIABILITY is limited to my replacement of any damaged component(s) with like kind.  Like the vast majority of you, I do not carry insurance against the loss of your property due to theft, fire, burglary, acts of God or Mother Nature, or other negligence.  If you want your project insured while it is here with me while I work on it, please get your own insurance policy on it before you ship it to me. 

Additional Information - Stock Refinishing Comments


There are a few things about stock refinishing in general that you should know beforehand, to avoid any unforeseen surprises. The spray-on factory finishes that have been in common use today often have dark stains incorporated into them. They tend to just sit on the surface of the wood and don’t soak into it. The stains used are generally inexpensive, and due to their relatively coarse particle size, are often fairly opaque. This allows for the use of lighter colored wood, which is often less costly wood. These dark finishes also can mask the character of the grain to such an extent that when it is removed and the wood is refinished, the owner is often not sure that they got the correct wood back. Generally, when these finishes are removed, so is the stain, because it was not applied separately to the wood before the finish was applied.

You can check to see if your factory wood is stained, and if so, to what extent. Most factory finished stocks don’t have much, if any, finish applied inside the inletting, under the grip cap, butt plate or recoil pad. Simply remove the metal work, grip cap, butt plate or recoil pad from the stock and have a look at the raw wood and compare it to the color of the finished areas. You can apply a little mineral spirits (paint thinner) with a cloth to the raw wood to "wet" it slightly to see about how it will look with a natural oil finish. If your wood has a dark stain, it will be readily apparent at this time

I don't use stains, either applied before the finish or in my finishes, because when the wood is progressively wet-sanded with finish to fill the pores, sanding through some areas of the stain more than others, results in an uneven blotchy appearance. If you want your wood refinished and want it darker than nature made it, then the most that I can do is to use aniline dyes dissolved in the finish. These dyes are relatively expensive, have microscopic particles and are very transparent. Being transparent, they do not hide the character and contrast of the grain, and can NEVER be as dark as stains. So, no matter what I do to darken your stock, if that is what you really want, it will never be as dark as it was. Also, it is impossible for me to selectively darken only light areas on a stock. It pretty much has to be an all or nothing proposition. This is just a fact of oil wood refinishing. If you have any questions, or concerns, please ask before we start! 

Biography & Interests

"If I can just get even ONE of these guns to group under a foot at three yards, I'll be a happy man!" - Clint Meier -


I'm nearly....hmmm, well, an old fart to some, still young to others, who just loves to make good guns better!  Built my first complete stock for a shotgun, from a plank, when in my early "teens".   Still got that piece!  Self-taught, lots of reading.  Been doin' it ever since.

I am looking forward to getting out to do a little shooting myself once in a while, as well as being able to work on a few projects of my own that I never had the time to start when I worked ‘full time’.